These days this tiny city has more to offer than the eels that reputedly gave it its name. Ely Cathedral soars majestically over the surrounding fens, and in the spring they still celebrate the Eel Festival with (toy) eel throwing. However, what we love most about modern Ely is that it’s so much nicer than its neighbour Cambridge, with its overblown property market, influx of London commuters and the out-of-town science parks that have squeezed much of the joy out of the city. Here, 15 minutes up the train line, house prices are about a third cheaper and people still make time for a chat.
Most of that chatting takes place in the lively market square, which is the heart of the town, with stalls selling everything from arts and crafts to artisan foods on most days of the week. During lockdown it has been essentials only, although many of the 250 or so regular traders provide home delivery. You’ll also find the Silver Oak coffee truck serving exceptional coffee (large latte £2.85, no extra charge for locally produced oat milk), and its outdoor tables are sociable and welcoming.
“Although it’s officially a city, Ely has a really friendly village atmosphere,” says Silver Oak’s founder, Bruce Garside. He has just launched the Bagel Bar, a gourmet takeaway sandwich shop run by the chef Josh Held, who makes a mean Big Green (£5.95), a pea fritter with feta topped with salsa verde and avocado cream. It’s not the only tasty new arrival. Tom’s Cakes (rosemary, lemon and olive oil cake, £15) and Inferno, a veggie-friendly barbecue joint, show that Covid hasn’t dented Ely’s appetite.
It hasn’t dented its reputation for kindness either. The Ely Scrub Hub’s 100-plus volunteers have been sewing PPE for NHS workers, and a Covid-19 community aid group has been providing “neighbourly assistance”. As the Maltings arts centre was more closed than open, and the Fen Speak poetry nights from Babylon Arts migrated to Zoom, the best entertainment was daily exercise. With beautiful old houses at every turn, every walk can be an opportunity to immerse yourself in history — especially around the quay. From there just take your dog, bike or running shoes along the River Great Ouse to enjoy the big skies and awe-inspiring views of the cathedral.
You’ll love living here if
You want a friendly base with Cambridge at hand, London within reach, and history all around.
Best address
The loveliest homes are the cottages and warehouse conversions by the river on the quayside or Waterside. There are some good family-sized period semis and detached homes on Cambridge Road — although traffic can be an issue here. If you want a new-build you’ll be spoilt for choice.
House prices
Connections
Trains take just 15 minutes to Cambridge and from 1 hour 10 minutes to London King’s Cross. By car it feels more remote — it’s 30 minutes to Cambridge and 50 minutes to the A1.
Broadband
More than half the area has access to full fibre from various providers using the Openreach network, including a lot of nearby Witchford. Ely also has widespread coverage from Virgin Media, giving you a wider choice of ultrafast networks.
Schools
The private King’s School (from £3,595 a term) is a big presence in the town — and on the river, where rowing is taken seriously. The local secondary Ely College (ages 11 to 18) was rated good by Ofsted after its inspection in 2019; the majority of primaries are also good.
Air quality
Fresh as the morning dew.
Don’t miss
The cathedral. Mesmerising when viewed from a distance — especially when the morning mist rises from the river — it’s pretty good close up too. Locals can pick up a pass that grants free admission, bypassing the £8 entrance fee.
What’s the catch?
Peak-time traffic can be torturous, especially as the level-crossing gates are closed frequently to let trains pass.
▶ Covid restrictions were in force when this article was published
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